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When it comes to the Los Angeles food scene, Burgundy-born chef Ludo Lefebvre, who trained at multiple Michelin-starred restaurants in France before immigrating to America in 1996, heaps on the praise like so much Béarnaise sauce. “Here, it’s like a firework of flavors.” His one gripe? As a countermeasure, the heavily tattooed former executive chef of L’Orangerie recently opened Trois Mec, which boasts what may be the strictest booking policy around: Tickets to the 24-seat hot spot, housed in a former pizza parlor on Highland Avenue, must be purchased online in advance, and if you’re late, Lefebvre starts cooking without you.
“I’m tired of people not showing up—and not even calling to cancel! Soup Nazi–ish as they may be, his tactics have only curried him more favor with the culinary crowd.
Then his rustic creation vanishes into the steely Fisher & Paykel oven.
Ludo worked with the legends of French cuisine—Alain Passard, Pierre Gagnaire, Guy Martin—before coming to LA in 1996 to run the kitchens of two of the city’s seminal French restaurants, L’Orangerie and Bastide.Let cool on a rack and generously dust with powdered sugar. After slathering a porcelain baking dish with butter and flour, he arranges a couple dozen plump cherries across the bottom.Cut into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature. With that, he ties on an apron and turns to the Thermomix—don’t worry, an ordinary blender or just a bowl and a whisk will also do. In keeping with the traditional recipe, he leaves the pits.Ludo is famous for transforming simple dishes like this into shockingly delicious versions of themselves—his tender, melt-in-your-mouth omelet and garlicky, browned-butter escargots at Petit Trois come to mind—so there is reason to expect this will be the most luscious clafoutis on Earth.“This is a big memory dish, and it’s a good dish—quick-cooking and easy to bake,” he says.“We’re making it with cherries, but you can go to the market, pick whatever fruit you can find, and it will be good.” Ludo grew up eating this classic French custard cake.
(If there is leftover batter, make a second, smaller clafoutis.)Place the clafoutis on a baking sheet and bake on the center rack of the oven for 45 to 50 minutes, until the clafoutis is puffed and lightly golden.